The roots of the chestnut trees emerge among the stones of the path, worn by centuries of footsteps. The Path of the Wayfarer runs 45 kilometers along the eastern shore of Lake Como, connecting Abbadia Lariana in the south to Colico in the north. It is not a modern route: this mule track was already in use in the Middle Ages as a communication route between the lakeside villages, used by merchants, pilgrims, and soldiers who could not afford to travel by water.
The very name tells its function: the wayfarer was anyone who moved on foot along these steep shores, carrying goods or simply seeking a passage between isolated communities. Today the trail is marked and accessible to hikers of all levels, although some sections require caution due to the uneven ground and significant elevation changes. The complete route generally takes two or three days to be comfortably completed, with overnight stays in the villages crossed.
The stretch between Varenna and Bellano: the most spectacular views
If you have only one day, the stretch between Varenna and Bellano is considered the most scenic of the entire route. From Varenna, reachable by ferry from the western shore of the lake or by train from the Lecco-Sondrio line, the path quickly rises through olive groves and terraced vineyards, already offering views of the lake basin that extends south after just a few minutes of walking.
Along this stretch, you encounter dry stone walls built over the centuries to reclaim cultivable land from the mountain: the terraces are still visible even where vegetation has partially reclaimed them. The path then descends towards Bellano, a town known for its Orrido, a gorge carved by the Pioverna stream that can be visited via a path on metal walkways. The distance between the two villages is about 7 kilometers, with a total elevation change of over 300 meters.
Chestnut Forests and Medieval Villages
Heading north, the path crosses chestnut woods that in autumn tint the landscape with ochre and bronze. These trees are not wild: for centuries, the chestnut has represented a fundamental food resource for mountain populations, and many specimens along the route show signs of historical pruning. The fallen fruits in September and October make the path slippery but fragrant.
The villages crossed — such as Dervio, Corenno Plinio, and Dorio — preserve local stone architecture with loggias, carved portals, and Romanesque churches. Corenno Plinio is one of the best-preserved villages, with a 14th-century castle of the Andreani family overlooking the lake and a church dedicated to Saint Thomas Becket, a testament to medieval contacts with the world across the Alps. The narrow, cobbled streets are practically unchanged from centuries ago.
How to organize the visit practically
The Path of the Wayfarer is accessible all year round, but the best months are April, May, September, and October: the temperatures are mild, the light is favorable for photography, and the trails are not crowded like in July and August. In summer, the heat can be intense in exposed sections, and it is advisable to start early in the morning, by 8:00 AM, to complete the more challenging sections before the central hours.
For those who do not want to walk the entire route in sequence, the railway system and the lake ferries allow access to different entry points and return to the starting point using public transport. The Varenna-Esino station, on the Milan-Sondrio line, is one of the most convenient entrances. Hiking shoes with a rigid sole are essential: the trail surface alternates between asphalt, cobblestones, and solid rock, and sneakers do not provide the necessary support on the downhill sections.
What to bring and what to expect
Along the route, drinking water fountains are available in various villages, but the stretches between one town and another can be long. It is advisable to start with at least one and a half liters of water in your backpack. The shelters and refreshment points are not evenly distributed: some stretches cross uninhabited areas for several consecutive kilometers.
Those who walk the trail over multiple days will find accommodations in the main villages, from small hotels to bed and breakfasts run by local families. Prices vary, but it is possible to find overnight stays starting from 50-70 euros per night in the low season. Booking in advance is essential on spring and autumn weekends when the trail attracts hikers from all over Lombardy and the Swiss Canton of Ticino.
