The vines grow sprawled on the ground like woven baskets, wrapped around themselves to withstand the winds of the Aegean Sea. This cultivation technique, called kouloura, is visible to the naked eye in the vineyards of Estate Argyros in Episkopi Gonias, in the heart of Santorini: vines that in some cases exceed seventy years of age, planted in a soil of gray volcanic pumice that does not retain water but preserves the nighttime humidity, nourishing the roots slowly and steadily.
The Argyros winery is one of the most established production realities on the island. Founded by the Argyros family in 1903, it is now led by Matthew Argyros, who has modernized production without abandoning traditional practices. With over 100 hectares of owned vineyards, it is considered one of the largest landowners in viticulture in Santorini, an island where the land is historically fragmented and properties rarely exceed a few hectares.
The volcanic terroir and the Assyrtiko grape
The soil of Santorini is the result of the volcanic eruption that shaped the caldera thousands of years ago. The mineral composition — pumice, ash, lava — does not contain enough clay to retain phylloxera, the pest that devastated European vineyards in the 19th century. For this reason, the vines of Santorini were never grafted onto American rootstocks and still grow today on their own roots, an absolute rarity in the European wine landscape.
The main grape variety cultivated by Argyros is Assyrtiko, an indigenous white grape capable of maintaining a pronounced acidity even in the hottest summers. The result in the glass is a dry wine, with aromas of citrus, sea salt, and flint, and a freshness that contrasts with the alcoholic structure — often around 13-14 degrees. Alongside Assyrtiko, the winery also produces wines from Athiri and Aidani grapes, lesser-known local varieties but equally rooted in the territory.
The Tasting: What to Expect
The tasting room of Argyros Estate is located within the structure of Episkopi Gonias, a village inland on the island, away from the chaos of Fira and Oia. The environment is sober, devoid of excessive decorations: wooden tables, natural light, a view of the vineyards. The tasting sessions generally include a selection of three or more labels, including the Argyros Estate base, the Monsignori — produced from single vineyards with particularly old vines — and the Vinsanto, the dessert wine obtained from grapes dried in the sun for about two weeks after harvest.
The Vinsanto of Argyros deserves special attention: it is a sweet, amber wine, with notes of dried fig, honey, and candied orange peel, produced according to a method that dates back at least to the Middle Ages. The Vinsanto designation of Santorini is protected and distinct from the Tuscan Vin Santo, although it shares with it the technique of drying. Some Vinsanto from the winery are aged in barrels for periods ranging from a few years to decades.
How to organize the visit
The winery is easily reachable by car or scooter from Fira in about fifteen minutes. It is not located on the scenic cliff, which means less tourist traffic and a more intimate atmosphere. It is advisable to book the tasting in advance, especially in July and August, when the island is at its peak attendance. The cost of the tasting sessions varies depending on the number of wines included, with options starting at around 20-25 euros per person for the basic tours.
The best time to visit is in the morning, when the temperatures are cooler and the palate is more receptive. If possible, a visit during the harvest period — which in Santorini generally occurs between the end of July and August, earlier than the rest of Greece due to the intense heat — allows you to see the vineyards in full activity and better understand the production cycle.
Why the trip to the inland is worth it
Santorini is often reduced to its most iconic images: the blue bell towers, the sunsets of Oia, the cliffs overlooking the sea. Episkopi Gonias represents a different Santorini, quieter, where the agricultural landscape — low vineyards, dry stone walls, gray soil — tells a story of adaptation and resilience. The kouloura vines, visible directly from the edges of the dirt roads among the vineyards, are objects of functional beauty: each basket is the result of decades of pruning, a living form that protects the clusters from the wind and evaporation.
Visiting the Estate Argyros does not require in-depth wine knowledge. It only requires the willingness to slow down, to look at the gray soil beneath your feet, and to understand that what is in the glass is, unusually, exactly the place where you are.
