Every row of vines in Lanzarote tells a story of resilience. The island's farmers, centuries ago, learned to dig individual holes in the black lava to protect each single plant from the trade winds and to capture the nighttime moisture. The result is a unique wine landscape in the world, made up of thousands of small artificial craters arranged in orderly rows on dark volcanic soil. It is in this context that Bodegas El Grifo is located, one of the oldest wineries in the Canary Islands.
Founded in 1775, El Grifo is considered one of the longest-standing wineries not only in Lanzarote but in the entire Canary archipelago. The winery is located in the central wine-growing area of the island, in the municipality of San Bartolomé, the heart of the D.O. Lanzarote designation of origin. Visiting it means coming into contact with a wine tradition that has traversed centuries of island history, adapting to extreme environmental conditions that elsewhere would have made any cultivation impossible.
The volcanic terroir: what you see and touch
Walking through the vineyards of El Grifo, the first thing that strikes you is the color. The soil is almost entirely composed of volcanic lapilli, locally called picón, a layer of porous gray-black material that covers the fertile ground underneath. This material, deposited by the eruptions of the 18th century, absorbs moisture during the night and slowly releases it to the roots of the vines during the day, making irrigation unnecessary on an island where rain is extremely rare.
The vines grow in hand-dug depressions, called hoyos, protected by semicircular walls made of black lava stone that act as a barrier against the wind. Each plant occupies its individual space. The predominant grape variety is Malvasía Volcánica, an indigenous grape that produces white wines with intense aromas and characteristic minerality. Observing these structures up close is already a remarkable visual experience, very different from any other European vineyard.
The wines: profiles and tasting
El Grifo produces different types of wine, but the whites made from Malvasía are the benchmark of the winery. There are dry versions and semi-sweet versions, the latter having a long historical tradition linked to exportation to European markets in past centuries. On the palate, the dry whites show notes of tropical fruit, white flowers, and a background salinity that recalls the sea, a direct effect of the volcanic terroir and proximity to the Atlantic.
The winery also produces wines from Listán Negro, an indigenous red grape variety, less known but interesting for those who want to explore local production beyond the whites. During the visit with tasting, it is possible to sample multiple labels in sequence, directly comparing the differences between the still, sparkling, and sweet versions. The winery staff accurately explains the characteristics of each wine, making the tasting informative even for those without specific knowledge.
The Wine Museum and the History of the Winery
Inside the property is the El Grifo Wine Museum, one of the most interesting aspects for visitors curious about local history. The collection includes ancient winemaking tools, historical documents, and original equipment dating back to past centuries. It is one of the most complete wine museums in the Canary Islands and allows visitors to understand how wine was produced on the island before the arrival of modern technologies.
The underground cellars, where the barrels rest, are open for visits and offer a sharp thermal contrast to the external heat. The constant temperature inside the galleries is essential for the proper maturation of the wines. The architecture of the winery blends historical structures with more recent environments, built to expand production capacity without altering the identity of the place.
Practical tips for the visit
El Grifo is located on the main road that runs through the wine-growing area of San Bartolomé, easily reachable by car from the capital Arrecife in about 15-20 minutes. There is no direct connection with frequent public transport, so renting a car is the most convenient solution. The winery is open to the public with regular hours, but it is advisable to check the updated hours on the official website before departing, as they may vary between high and low season.
The best time to visit is in the morning, when temperatures are cooler and the site is less crowded. Allow at least two hours to visit the museum, the vineyards, and enjoy a tasting at a leisurely pace. Those who are driving cannot participate in the alcoholic tasting, but the winery offers non-alcoholic alternatives. Buying at least one bottle directly from the winery is a good idea: prices are in line with those of local large distribution, but the selection is wider and the wines are fresh from production.
