The trunk of a two-thousand-year-old cedar of Lebanon has a circumference that can exceed three meters. You can only understand this when you stand in front of it, with your hands resting on the rough, gray bark, and you realize that your arms are not enough to embrace it. At the Cedars of Tannourine Reserve, in the Batroun district, in northern Lebanon, this encounter is possible along the marked trails that cross one of the best-preserved cedar forests in the country, at about 1900 meters above sea level.
The reserve is located in the village of Tannourine El Faouqa and protects a forest of Cedrus libani, the symbol species of the country that features on the Lebanese flag. Unlike the more famous Cedars of Bsharri, this site is less frequented by mass tourist circuits, which means quieter trails, cleaner air, and the real possibility of being alone among the trees for long stretches.
The marked trails: what you encounter along the way
The network of trails in the reserve is relatively short but rich in details. The main paths are marked with colored indicators and cross various environments: open areas where light filters through the flat and horizontal canopies of mature cedars, denser areas where the underbrush is almost absent due to lack of light, and grassy clearings that fill with wildflowers in spring. The ground is partly rocky, limestone, typical of the Lebanese mountains, and in certain spots requires shoes with good grip soles.
Along the way, you encounter cedar specimens of very different sizes: young trees, planted as part of reforestation programs initiated in recent decades, and then the ancient patriarchs, with branches twisted by wind and snow, that dominate the landscape. Some of these specimens are estimated to be over 2000 years old. The difference between a young cedar and an ancient one is visible just by looking at the shape of the canopy: flat and wide in adults, conical in young ones.
The visitor center and guided night walks
At the entrance of the reserve, there is a small visitor center run by local volunteers. It is not an elaborate structure: it is a simple space where informative panels explain the cedar ecosystem, the fauna present in the reserve — which includes species of birds of prey and small mammals — and the history of the protection of this forest. The volunteers are often villagers with direct knowledge of the area and can answer specific questions about the local flora.
One of the most original proposals of the reserve is the guided night walk. With the guidance of a volunteer, it is possible to walk the trails at night, when the forest completely changes its appearance and sound. At almost 2000 meters above sea level, far from the light pollution of the Lebanese coastal cities, the night sky is particularly visible. Night outings must be booked in advance directly at the visitor center or by contacting the local associations that manage the reserve.
How to get there and when to visit
Tannourine El Faouqa can be reached by car from Beirut in about two hours, taking the road that climbs towards the mountains of the Batroun district. There is no direct public transport service to the reserve, so a car is practically necessary. The mountain road is paved but narrow in some sections: it is advisable not to tackle it with very large vehicles.
The best time to visit is from late spring to early autumn, approximately from May to October. In winter, the reserve may be covered in snow and the trails are not safely passable without specific equipment. Spring is particularly beautiful for the vegetation, while September and October offer mild temperatures and excellent light for photography. It is advisable to arrive early in the morning, both to avoid the heat during the central hours and to have a better chance of spotting wildlife during the quieter hours.
Practical tips for the visit
Bringing enough water is essential: there are no refill points along the trails. Sturdy-soled hiking shoes are recommended for the limestone terrain. Layered clothing is also useful in summer, as temperatures can drop quickly in the afternoon or in case of clouds at nearly 2000 meters. Entry to the reserve is generally free or by donation, but it is good practice to contribute to the maintenance of the visitor center, which operates thanks to the volunteer work of the local community.
A visit to the main trails typically takes two to three hours at a leisurely pace, with stops to observe the largest trees. Those who want to explore the entire network of paths may take a whole day. A guide is not necessary for daytime trails, but for nighttime outings, the presence of a local guide is mandatory and adds a level of understanding of the place that is difficult to achieve alone.
