As you set foot into Pyrgi, a small island town on Chios with a population of around 1,000, you immediately sense that you’re walking through an open-air museum. The village’s narrow, cobblestone streets guide you through a labyrinth of buildings adorned with intricate sgraffito designs, known locally as ‘xista’. This unique art form, characterized by geometric shapes and patterns, serves as a living, breathing testament to the village’s rich and colorful past.
Pyrgi is one of Chios’ famed “mastic villages”, a term that reflects its longstanding tradition of mastic gum production. Mastic, the resin harvested from the island’s indigenous mastic trees, has been a cherished commodity since antiquity. It has been utilized in a plethora of products ranging from medicines and foods to liqueurs and natural chewing gum. The mastic trade has not only sustained the island’s economy for centuries but has also shaped its identity.
While mastic is undoubtedly central to Pyrgi’s heritage, it’s the eye-catching xista that captivates visitors and artists alike. These intricate designs are not native to the island but were introduced by Genoese Italians during medieval times. The Genoese influence has melded seamlessly with the local culture, creating an architectural tapestry that combines elements of both Greek and Italian Renaissance artistry.
The technique of xista involves layering plaster in varying colors and then etching away portions to reveal striking designs. The end result is a façade that seems almost embroidered, catching the sunlight and casting intricate shadows, making each walk through the village a unique visual experience.
For the modern visitor, Pyrgi offers not just an aesthetic feast but also a deep, multi-layered narrative that blends culture, history, and art in a singularly beautiful way. The town serves as a subtle reminder of how interwoven our global histories are and how art and tradition can survive, and even flourish, through the blending of cultures. As you wander through this charming village, each patterned façade tells a story, not just of a building, but of a community that has thrived by harmoniously blending the old with the new, the local with the foreign.
In summary, a visit to Pyrgi is not merely a leisurely stroll through a picturesque village; it’s a journey through time, a walk across the pages of history, and a celebration of the enduring power of art and tradition.
