Puolanka is a small town in Finland that has become famous for its particular brand of pessimism. As you approach Puolanka, a small town in the middle of Finland, large yellow signs appear on the side of the road. On a grey afternoon, they look cheerful – until you see what’s written on them. “Are you lost? Next up: Puolanka,” warns one. “Soon, Puolanka. You’ve still got time to turn around,” cautions another.