There’s something irresistibly enchanting about Ysternia, a village that seems to have captured the essence of time, beauty, and nature all in one. As we drove up the winding roads, the Meltemi winds of Tinos gently caressing our faces through the open windows, we knew we were heading somewhere special. The locals had told us that the sunsets here were the sort to steal your breath away, and we were eager to experience this natural spectacle.
Perched on the slopes of Meroviglia hill, Ysternia greeted us like an amphitheater overlooking the Aegean, its white structures glowing softly in the late afternoon light. We parked and stepped out, taking a deep breath of air rich with the fragrances of thistle and thyme. The village’s marble-clad pathways invited us in, as if whispering tales of a grand past when Ysternia was a thriving hub of artistry and wealth, fueled by its abundant marble quarries.
The village is more than just a picturesque setting; it’s a living museum of fine marble craftsmanship. Ysternia is the birthplace of some of Tinos’ most renowned sculptors, such as the Malakates brothers and George Vitalis, whose legacies are etched in the very stone that builds the village. As we walked through the narrow lanes, the marble underfoot and overhead seemed to come alive, each piece a chapter in a long, unfolding story of skill and tradition.
The two-storey Cycladic mansions are works of art themselves, their marble lintels intricately carved with designs that have survived the passage of time. The window frames, too, are sculpted marble, each one a masterful blend of form and function. Narrow lanes beckon you further in, their archways providing cool shade, while steep streets appear to tumble straight into the depths of the sea below.
And then there are the courtyards—oases of color bursting with bougainvillaea and geraniums, each offering a panoramic viewpoint that extends as far as Syros and, on a clear day, even further to other Cycladic islands on the horizon.
As the sun began its descent, casting a violet hue over the calm Aegean waters, we realized why Ysternia’s sunset is lauded as a not-to-miss spectacle. It was as if the sun itself chose this perfect amphitheater to take its final bow of the day, leaving us in awe and grateful for the serenity this beautiful corner of Tinos offered. The experience was a harmonious blend of natural beauty and human artistry, a moment suspended between the past and the present, a memory etched, much like Ysternia itself, in both heart and stone.
