A local legend says that the founder Don Melchor de Concha y Toro, to discourage employees from stealing wine, spread the word that the devil lived in the underground cellars of the estate. That story, which originated in the second half of the nineteenth century, has survived to this day and gave its name to the Casillero del Diablo line, one of the most recognizable Chilean wines in the world. The winery was officially founded in 1883 and is located in Pirque, in the Maipo Valley, about 40 kilometers south of Santiago.
Arriving here means entering a wooded park of eucalyptus and century-old pines, crossing orderly vineyards that stretch for hundreds of hectares, and reaching a colonial-style manor house that still retains the atmosphere of the nineteenth-century farm. It is not an abstract wine museum: it is an active production site, where barrels are still filled every year with grapes grown in the volcanic and clay soils of the Maipo Valley.
The terroir of the Maipo Valley and the iconic grape varieties
The Maipo Valley owes its characteristics to a dry Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and mild winters, and to soils of alluvial and volcanic origin that drain water well. These conditions particularly favor Cabernet Sauvignon, which here produces wines with firm tannins, notes of dark fruit, and a structure suitable for aging. It is no coincidence that some of the flagship labels of Concha y Toro come from this valley.
Equally interesting is Carménère, a grape variety originally from Bordeaux that had practically disappeared in Europe after the phylloxera outbreak at the end of the nineteenth century, but which has found an ideal habitat in Chile. For decades it was mistaken for Merlot; only in the 1990s did researchers confirm its true genetic identity. Today it is considered the emblematic grape variety of Chile, and Concha y Toro produces versions that express herbaceous notes, green pepper, and ripe red fruits, with a soft and persistent body.
The winery tour and the legend of Casillero del Diablo
The guided tours of the estate include a walk through the vineyards, a visit to the manor house, and entry into the underground cellars where the oak barrels rest. It is in this space that the story of the devil is told with a certain theatricality: low lights, a consistently cool temperature, and the smell of aged wood create an atmosphere that justifies the fame of the place. The barrels visible during the tour are real and in use, not decorative elements.
At the end of the tour, a tasting of two or three labels is included, usually included in the ticket price. The wines offered vary depending on the chosen package, but generally include at least one Cabernet Sauvignon and one Carménère. Premium tours may include labels from the Don Melchor line, the company's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, produced with grapes selected from specific vineyards in the Maipo Valley. The price of basic tours is around 20-30 US dollars per person, with more expensive options for advanced tastings.
What to observe physically during the visit
Walking among the rows, it is possible to closely observe the difference between the Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon vines: the former has larger leaves and a more vigorous growth, with less compact clusters. The guides often explain how to recognize the degree of ripeness of the grapes and why the harvest in Chile takes place between February and April, the opposite season to that of Europe.
The manor house preserves period furniture and furnishings, and some rooms display documents and photographs that document the history of the company from its foundation onwards. The surrounding park, with its tall trees, provides shade during the summer months and a very different visual context from that of modern industrial wineries.
Practical tips for the visit
Concha y Toro can be reached from Santiago in about 45-60 minutes by car, or with organized tours that depart from the city center and include transportation. It is advisable to book the tour online at least a few days in advance, especially on weekends and during the southern tourist season, from October to March. The complete visit, including the tasting, generally takes about two hours.
Those planning to taste wines should avoid driving themselves, or designate a non-tasting driver. Bringing a light sweater is also useful in summer: the underground cellars maintain a constant temperature around 14-16 degrees Celsius, significantly cooler than outside during the hot months.